Wholesale Grower Reference Information

Frequently Requested Documents:

• Planting your bulbs, getting started
• Special Instructions for Outside Rooting Beds
• Cooler Temperature Chart
• Service Bulletin for planting Tulip, Daffodils and Hyacinths
• Service Bulletin for planting Muscari, Iris and Tete a Tete
• Minimum, Optimum, Maximum Cold Week Chart

Grower Programs Easter and Mother's Day Bulb Forcing Program - The most popular holiday for selling Dutch blooming bulbs. Start here if you want to learn more about forcing or to ensure you are on schedule with your Easter crop. Early and Valentines Day Forcing Program - Increasing in popularity is our Valentines day program. Who would not like to see some color during the winter months. Even President Bush gave Laura Bush tulips instead of roses for Valentine's Day. Easter Lily Forcing Schedule - This ever popular Easter Plant requires specific care, find here what is necessary to keep Easter Lilies on schedule for Easter. Oriental and Asiatic Lily Forcing Program - An easy crop to grow for Easter and Mother's Day given the right bulbs and proper handling. Perennial Pot Production - Be prepared for the rush of Spring sales by starting your bare root perennials early in the greenhouse and they will be ready for Spring sales. Water Plant Production - Water Gardening continues to increase in popularity, these easy care instructions and tips will help you maintain a successful water plant program for your nursery or garden center.

Investing in Quality We would like to stress that we do not just talk about quality, we invest heavily in it. This year we have purchased new technology that allows us to X-Ray bulbs for viruses. Only bulb companies with an eye towards future growth and a commitment to quality have so far acquired this state of the art technology. The new technology comes in the form of the BBX machine from Havatec (www.havatec.nl). Internally we have coined the term "MRI" machine because it allows us pass each bulb through X-RAY sensors which are able to detect bulb imperfections long before they are detectable by the human eye such as bulb rot and viruses. In the past, the only way to determine if a bulb was healthy was to cut the bulb open and see if there was a healthy embryo of a flower inside. This of course would ruin the bulb and was only used as a method to spot check for developing viruses. Other methods used in the past were to hand inspect every bulb. During the peak season, personnel would sit behind conveyor belts for 8 to 12 hours per day inspecting bulbs. All this hard work would still leave the possibility of bad bulbs arriving in the United States after a two week sea voyage and transit time to the customer's business. The BBX or "MRI machine" solves this problem because it can take a picture of over 45,000 bulbs per hour without any waste and alert the inspectors of bulbs that may have potential issues.

Planting Instructions

Planting Instructions

For Outside Rooting Beds

· Plant bulbs between the end of October and end of November.

· Use a good well balanced growing mix. (see other sheets)

· Place rooting bed in a well drained area.

· Place rooting bed in an open area or field. Not in between greenhouses due to the fact that the sun reflects heat onto the rooting bed.

· Water all pots before placing winter cover over top.

· Cover pots with 2-3 inches of sand.

· Cover sand layer with 3-4 inches of straw salt hay immediately after planting. This is the winter cover.

· Remove winter cover (weather permitting) in February. Call for details before removing.

For more information log on to our website: www.netherlandbulb.com 13 McFadden Rd Easton, PA 18045 Phone: 1.800.78.TULIP (88547) Fax: 1.888.508.3762 FLOWER BULB FORCING SERVICE BULLETIN (PLANT FALL 2008 - FLOWER SPRING 2009) LOWER COOLER TEMPERATURE !!!!!!! RECOMMENDED PLANT TIME = SEPTEMBER SCHEDULE 1. EARLY & VALENTINE DAY FORCING COOLER TEMPERATURE SPECIE VARIETY POT MOISTURE CONTENT STORE BULBS BEFORE PLANTING IN WELL VENTILATED AREA @ Temp Range 1 Temp Range 2 Temp Range 3 Temp Range 4 If Planting & Rooting between 9/1 to 10/25 maintain If Planting & Rooting between 10/26 & 11/5 maintain Planting after 11/6 maintain When sprouts develop too long drop temp to:

Follow this temperature sequence for best results and a quality root system.

After 10/25 drop cooler to temp range 2, then 3 then 4 at given dates After 11/5 drop cooler to temp range 3 then 4 at given dates When sprouts develop too long drop to temp range 4 FAHRENHEIT / CELSIUS F^o C^o F^o C^o F^o C^o F^o C^o F^o C^o TULIPS MOIST - WET 65 18 48 9 45 7 40 5 32-33 0-0.25 HYACINTHS** MOIST - WET 65 18 48 9 45 7 40 5 35 2 DAFFODILS MOIST - WET 65 18 48 9 45 7 40 5 32-33 0-0.25 TETE A TETE MOIST - DRY 65 18 48 9 45 7 40 5 32-33 0-0.25 CROCUS MOIST - WET 65 18 48 9 45 7 40 5 32-33 0-0.25 IRIS MOIST - DRY 65 18 48 9 45 7 40 5 32-33 0-0.25 HYACINTHS PRE-PARED MOIST - WET 65 18 48 9 45 7 40 5 35 2 ** Drop temp. to zero only after hyacinths have been fully vernalized (# of cold weeks). See forcer's guide book RECOMMENDED PLANT TIME = OCTOBER/NOVEMBER SCHEDULE 2. LATE & EASTER FORCING COOLER TEMPERATURE SPECIE VARIETY POT MOISTURE CONTENT STORE BULBS BEFORE PLANTING IN WELL VENTILATED AREA @ 60-70 F^o Temp Range 1 Temp Range 2 Temp Range 3 Temp Range 4 If Planting & Rooting between 10/10 & 10/25 maintain If Planting & Rooting between 10/26 & 11/5 maintain If Planting & Rooting after 11/6 maintain When sprouts develop too long drop temp to:

Follow this temperature sequence for best results and a quality root system.

After 10/25 drop cooler to temp range 2, then 3 then 4 at given dates After 11/5 drop cooler to temp range 3 then 4 at given dates When sprouts develop too long drop to temp range 4 FAHRENHEIT / CELSIUS F^o C^o F^o C^o F^o C^o F^o C^o F^o C^o TULIPS MOIST - WET 65 18 48 9 45 7 40 5 30-32 -1 / 0 HYACINTHS** MOIST - WET 65 18 48 9 45 7 40 5 35 2 DAFFODILS MOIST - WET 65 18 48 9 45 7 40 5 32-33 0-0.25 TETE A TETE MOIST - DRY 65 18 48 9 45 7 40 5 32-33 0-0.25 CROCUS MOIST - WET 65 18 48 9 45 7 40 5 32-33 0-0.25 IRIS MOIST - DRY 65 18 48 9 45 7 40 5 32-33 0-0.25

STORAGE OF BULBS BEFORE PLANTING

Dear Customer:

Your shipment of Holland flowerbulbs has arrived. To assure you the best possible results, we suggest you proceed as follows.

STORAGE OF BULBS BEFORE PLANTING

· Directly upon arrival and prior to planting, store your bulbs in an outside air ventilated room at (60-70 degrees F) or (17-20 degrees C)

· Storing unplanted Hyacinth, Tete a Tete & Daffodil bulbs at lower temperature will increase the risk of mold, mildew, botrytis and penicillum.

· If you receive your shipment of bulbs in card board boxes, open the boxes immediately for more ventilation.

POTTING SOIL

Plant bulbs in a well drained growing mix. The growing mix should be as follows:

q P.H. level between 5.5 – 6.5

q Low in soluable salts

q Should be moist not wet at planting time

q Leave enough room in pot to water them during the greenhouse forcing phase.

q Growing mix should contain the following:

o 20% clean top soil or sand * (VERY IMPORTANT TO AVOID BOTRYTIS) 60% peatmoss

o 20% Styrofoam or vermiculite for added drainage and to increase oxygen in the pot for better aeration on your tulip roots.

q The growing mix can greatly influence the quality of your tulip crop. A ph of 5.5 to 6.5 versus a ph of 6.5 to 7.0 will lessen the amount of roots in your pot (this is good) and will also fight of more bacteria for healthier roots. Should your ph be at the level of 7.0 bring it down to a less neutral level. The sand in your mix will naturally fight off bacteria and will increase the drainage and oxygen levels around the tulip roots; which is desirable.

Providing water when planting:

Do not over water after planting and then placing the pots in the cooler. You should self test the moisture level in your growing mix. The procedure is as follows: Take a hand full of growing mix and place it in the palm of your hand. Squeeze as hard as you can and if there is excessive water dropping out, your mix is too wet. You should get a couple drops of water out of the mix, and no more. Adjust your moisture level in the mix accordingly, because too much water will cause a shortage of oxygen leading to a weakening root system, and thus increasing the risk and susceptibility of Pythium. Rooting can then proceed quickly and satisfactorily.

CULTURAL INFORMATION FOR LATE TULIP FORCING (EASTER April 12, 2009)

This is an important section stating the facts for increasing the quality on your TULIP bulb crop for the next growing season.

There is increase concern on tulip ROOT diseases. The disease in particular that we are referring to is called Botrytis Cinerea or more commonly referred to as “GREY MOLD”. This does not affect hyacinths or daffodils.

WHAT IS GREY MOLD? EXISTS ONLY ON TULIP ROOTS

Grey Mold or Botrytis Cinerea is a BACTERIAL root infected disease. This disease will start to grow if conditions are favorable. The favorable conditions are:

1. When too many roots are in the bottom of the pot.

2. Wrong growing medium is used

3. Long extended rooting time at 48 degrees

SYMPTOMS:

· Grey mold can be seen in the cooler during the winter months already.

· Grey puffy or fuzzy mold growing from drainage holes

· Slimy, glazy roots in the bottom of the pot.

CAUSED BY:

The primary cause for this disease is the dying back or the decomposing of root mass in the bottom of the growing pot. The roots decompose because of:

1. Lack of oxygen around the roots

2. Too many roots in the bottom of the pot (layer upon layer of roots)

WHAT TO DO TO AVOID GREY MOLD:

1. Always use new pots

2. Use the proper growing mix as described above

3. Root tulips until they just hit the bottom of the pot

4. Follow temperature schedule included in your shipment

Bulb fully yours,

Peter Langeveld Jr.

Water Plant Production

We have teamed up with a waterplant focused grower in providing pre-started waterplants. A catalog can be downloaded by clicking here . Contact so that one our water plant specialists can assist you in making a selection.

Growing tips for growers who plant to jumpstart water plants for resale

• Plants remain dormant if the water temperature is below 55 degrees
• For easy transport and sale of Zone C and D plants. Start these plants in 10" hanging baskets and immerse in about 12 inches of water. Planting them first in hanging baskets will avoid having your employees or customers continually get their clothes wet when digging for water plants.
• Nymphaes should be planted at a 45 degree angle with the growing point as close to the center as possible.
• If you wish to use fertilizer, use the specially designed fertilizer tablets instead of loose fertilizer. Tablets will stay with the plant and not float away.
• In terms of soil content, stay away from high peat vermiulite or perlite, again it also has a tendency to float away. Instead use a heavy clay or top soil. You may also top the pot with coarse sand or pea gravel as long as it is not around the crown.
• Before immersing the pots in water, let the pots sit in a pan of water to allow the sand to completely saturate with water and remove air bubbles.

Arrival of Your Shipment

• Open the boxes immediately and inspect your shipment. Any shortages or damages must be reported within 5 business days of receipt. If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:
• Store your bare root perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit
• Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)
  

Looking for planting and care instructions for your home garden or pond? Click Here

Perennial Pot Production

Follow the instructions below and most plant varieties should be marketable for spring sales in 6-10 weeks from growth of new foliage.

Arrival of Your Shipment

• Open the boxes immediately and inspect your shipment. Any shortages or damages must be reported within 5 business days of receipt. If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:
• Store your bare root perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit
• Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)
• Plants such as Cerastigma, Delphinium, Echinacea, Perovskia and other varieties may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help.

Priority Plants

• Begin by potting up the bare root perennials from your order, followed by the potted plants.
• If your potted plants were shipped in mini greenhouses, remove the plants from the mini greenhouses and place the plants in a lighted area at a temperature between 50 and 60 degrees.

Containers & Soils

• Most varieties are ready to be put into 1 gallon pots. Use a well draining commercial potting mix with a low nutrient charge. Take care in handling roots during the planting process, they are living plants. Roots should be firm and pliable, and can be soaked in a tub of room temperature water for up to 1 hour as you plant to re-hydrate the dormant roots.

Moisture Requirements

• Water your newly potted perennials sparingly, over watering is a major cause of death among plants. Roots exposed to cold, wet conditions for extended periods are at risk for root rot. However, pots should also not be allowed to dry completely between watering.

Temperature Requirements

• It is important to keep recently transplanted perennials above freezing. Most importantly keep pots from going through freeze-thaw cycles caused by daytime warming and nighttime freezing, which will surely kill your plants.
  
• Mulch or place straw around pots to insulate and maintain more consistent temperatures. Begin growing in cool temperatures (45 F) for maximum root growth prior to new foliage emergence, this will ensure a strong, healthy, stocky plant rather than a spindly, weak, pale plant.
• After several weeks, slowly raise temperatures to 55-60 F to finish pots. As temperatures moderate in your climate, pots can be moved outdoors.

Fertilizers

• Initial watering can be at 50-75ppm. Begin feeding at 150ppm 2 weeks after planting and continue approximately every 10-14 days, alternating with clear water until plants reach saleable size. Feed after that point only to keep plants green at 150ppm using a 14-0-14 alternated with 13-2-13 is optimal or similar formulation. Under sunny conditions a 17-5-17 may be required. PPM may vary with different media so it is important to test.

Lighting

• Plants such as Artemisia, Coreopsis and Echinacea are long day plants and need to be lighted from 10PM to 2AM to force properly. If growth becomes excessive, lighting may be discontinued.

Oriental and Pixie Lily Forcing Schedule

The instructions below are for both Oriental and Pixie (Asiatic) lilies which are suitable for forcing for the Easter and Mother's Day holidays.

Arrival of Your Shipment

• Oriental lilies will be shipped earlier than Pixie lilies because Oriental lilies take longer to force in the greenhouse than Pixie lilies.
• Pixie lilies are shipped based on when Easter falls that year. .
• The following chart provides a general rule of thumb as to which varieties should be planted when for specific holidays.

Lily Type	Lily Variety	Required number of weeks to force at 65 degrees	Greenhouse days to force 65 degrees	Plant Week	Selling Holiday
Oriental	Stargazer	15 weeks	100 - 110	1/19/2009	Mother's Day 2009 May 10th
Oriental	Mona Lisa	13 weeks	85 - 90	1/5/2009	Easter 2009 April 12th
Oriental	Farolito	8 weeks	75 - 80	1/19/2009	Easter 2009 April 12th
Asiatic	Orange Pixie	8 weeks	65 - 70	1/26/2009	Easter 2009 April 12th
Asiatic	Petit Brigitte	8 weeks	60 - 65	2/2/2009	Easter 2009 April 12th
Asiatic	Mount Dragon	8 weeks	60 - 65	2/2/2009	Easter 2009 April 12th
Asiatic	Mount Duckling	7 weeks	60 - 65	2/2/2009	Easter 2009 April 12th
Asiatic	Peach Pixie	9 weeks	60 - 65	2/2/2009	Easter 2009 April 12th
Asiatic	Mount Grace	9 weeks	60 - 65	2/2/2009	Easter 2009 April 12th
Asiatic	Black Bird	8 weeks	60 - 65	2/2/2009	Easter 2009 April 12th
Asiatic	Pink Pixie	8 weeks	55 - 60	2/9/2009	Easter 2009 April 12th
Asiatic	Matrix	8 weeks	55 - 60	2/9/2009	Easter 2009 April 12th
Asiatic	Orange Matrix	8 weeks	55 - 60	2/9/2009	Easter 2009 April 12th
Asiatic	Flevo Surprise	7 weeks	50 - 60	2/9/2009	Easter 2009 April 12th

Containers & Soil Requirements

• Plant lilies deep in 6 inch standard pots. They need to make stem roots for a healthy growing plant.
• The ideal PH level of the soil is 6.3.

Moisture Requirements

• Water all pots thoroughly.

Temperature Requirements

• Start lilies off for the first two weeks between 55 and 60 degrees, then raise the temperature to 65 degrees.
• After lilies have broken the soil line, the temperature can be increased to 68 degrees.

Water and Fertilizers Requirements

• Once lilies break the soil line, start feeding lilies 250 PPM (125 PPM Potassium Nitrate and 125 PPM Calcium Nitrate.) Feed only when growing medium is dry. Every time you water, use this combination of fertilizer.
• Due to constant feeding, make sure your salt level does not build up. If this happens your pH will increase. Again, ideal pH level is 6.3

Lighting Requirements

• Since these lilies are grown during the winter months additional lighting is required. Once lilies break the soil line, place a string of lights over the top. Growers should give both Oriental and Asiatic lilies a minimum of 16 hours of light per day. If lilies do not receive adequate lighting during the forcing period, poor quality lilies will result by flower buds aborting and falling off the stem.