Easter Lily Forcing Schedule

Below was the recommended schedule for Easter Lily Production for Easter 2010 (April 4, 2010)

Soil Requirements
* Use a good commercial artificial growing mix that is a light coarse airy mix. The soil should contain no super phosphate with a pH between 5.8 and 6.5 containing good levels of calcium and some available nitrate nitrogen fertilizer.

Planting Depth
* Plant into a standard depth pot with 1 inch of media below the bulb, assuming bulb and peat moss temperatures were satisfactory during cooling.

Temperature Requirements
* Start crop between 60 and 62 degrees at night and between 65 and 68 degrees during the day.

Easter 2010 Schedule Courtesy of our Growers

Easter Lily Forcing Schedule

Schedule for Uncooled Easter Lilies	Schedule for Pre-Cooled Easter Lilies	Follow Instructions precisely for a healthy on-time crop
Oct. 12-19		Bulbs shipping from West Coast
	Oct. 22	Begin case cooling
Oct. 19 - Nov 3.		Pot bulbs; fungicide/insecticide dip for mites, and root in 63-65 degree soil temperature.
Nov. 3		Begin precooling at 42 degrees. Make sure all pots/cases are uniformly moist so the bulbs perceive the cold and become vernalized. Check regularly for adequate moisture and sprouting. Have good air circulation in cooler to eliminate warm spots.
	Dec. 3-7	Pot case-cooled lilies; fungicide/insecticide dip for mites
Dec. 15	Dec. 7	Begin greenhouse forcing. Run 63-65 degree soil temperature; fungicide and feed with a program of at least 400-150-400 PPM NPK in a soilless mix.
Dec. 30	Dec. 23	Many plants should be emerged. Warm to 66-68 degrees if you feel emergence is slow.
Jan. 8	Jan. 1	Crop should be 100% emerged. Maintain 63-65 degree soil temperature.
Jan. 15	Jan. 7	Fungicide drench; maintain high feed level through January for bud initiation. Beware of stressing plants: high temps, low nutrition, dry pots, growth retardants, etc.
Jan. 12	Jan. 4	Flower initiation is occurring. If you are going to temperature dip to 55 degrees to increase flower count, this is the time to do it. (At least run cool; no warmer than 60-63 degrees.)
Jan. 20	Jan. 12	Flower initiation is ending.
Jan. 25	Jan. 20	Count leaves. Dissect a few plants to determine reproductivity and total leaf numbers. Space if necessary and adjust temperatures to desired leaf unfolding rate. Correlate leaf counts to graphical tracking information and charts.
Feb. 14	Feb. 7	Fungicide drench; monitor temperature and leaf unfolding rate as there is still a long time to go. Feed 250-0-250 PPM using calcium and potassium nitrates or a similar mix incorporating nitrates only.
Feb. 17	Feb. 17	First buds beginning to show. Watch for aphids, high temperatures, and dry pots.
Feb. 22	Feb. 22	Visible bud date. Move to heat those pots without visible bud. Remember plant height doubles from visible bud to flower.
Mar. 8	Mar. 8	Absolute last day for visible bud . If not visible today, lily will not make Easter.
Mar. 15	Mar. 7	Final fungicide drench. Maintain feed up to shipping.
Apr. 4	Apr. 4	Easter Sunday - SELL OUT !

Additional Comments from Rich J. McAvoy of the University of Connecticut Easter

Pot-cooled bulbs are normally potted & held for three weeks at 63F before the six weeks of bulb cooling (at 40-45F). The bulbs then require 14 weeks of greenhouse forcing. This entire process requires 23 weeks from initial potting to Easter. This is the same process is used for both naturally cooled or CTF bulbs.

Case-cooled bulbs require six weeks of cooling followed by 17 weeks of greenhouse forcing to flower in time for Easter. Insurance lighting should not be needed this year but can be used if you can’t complete the full 6-weeks of bulb cooling.

Insurance lighting

Provide insurance lighting if you know or suspect that bulbs have not received the entire six weeks of cooling. Insurance lighting refers to night break lighting used to produce a long day photoperiod. When insurance lighting is used immediately following shoot emergence it will produce the same effect as bulb cooling or vernalization. Therefore, insurance lighting can be used to substitute for inadequate bulb cooling. Provide one day of insurance lighting for each day of lost cooling. Incandescent, fluorescent, or HID lighting in excess of 10 f.c. from 10 pm to 2 am daily will provide the necessary night break .

Fertigation

Start fertilizing with soluble formulation when lilies emerge and continue to within 7 days of sale. Combine calcium nitrate (3 parts) with potassium nitrate (2 parts) to make a 15‑0‑18 soluble fertilize, or use a commercial 15-0-15 formulation. If phosphorus was not added to the medium, 20-10-20 can be used on an alternating basis with a 15-0-15. Fertilizer rates should range from 200-400 ppm. Do not allow medium EC to exceed 3-3.5 mmho/cm based on a Saturated Media Extract . Stop fertilizing just before sale. Provide one clear watering before lilies are shipped - this will reduce salt levels in the potting medium and maximize lily-keeping quality. Do not withhold water or fertilizer to slow development. Do not over water (i.e. water too frequently) or root rot problems may occur .

Decrease Leaf Yellowing & Delay Flower Senescence: To prevent early-season (7 to 10 days before visible bud) & mid-season (7 to 10 days after visible bud) leaf yellowing, spray Fascination at 10/10 ppm. (Note: Fascination contains two active ingredients and recommendations include the concentration of each). Apply only to lower leaves & cover thoroughly. To prevent late-season leaf yellowing and post-harvest flower senescence, spray 100/100 ppm to thorough cover all foliage & buds. Apply when buds are 3 to 3 ½” long & NOT MORE than 14 days before shipping or cooling. Protects leaves from yellowing for up to 14 days. Note: Side effects include increased stem stretch. Avoid direct contact of spray to immature leaves during early- & mid-season applications.

Disease and pest control: Before planting, clean bulbs of debris removing any damaged scales, especially scales that show evidence of infection. Once potted, root rots associated with Rhizoctonia, Fusarium, and Pythium are a concern. Drench immediately with Banrot, a broad-spectrum fungicide, or you can treat to control these diseases separately by selecting from the fungicides specifically registered for Rhizoctonia, Fusarium and Pythium control on lily. Materials registered for Rhizoctonia and/or Fusariuminclude 26GT, 26/36, Contrast ( Rhizoctonia), Sextant, and Terraclor WP ( Rhizoctonia). Materials registered for controlling Pythium include Alude, Banol, Subdue Maxx, Truban WP and Truban EC. Check with manufacturers regarding compatibility when tank mixing fungicides for Pythium with Rhizoctonia/Fusarium controlling materials. Fungicides may need to be re-applied later in the crop, check labels for guidance.

Aphids, fungus gnats and bulb mites are a major concern. Use only smokes or aerosols once in bud. Many chemicals are listed for aphid control, including, Safari, Celero, Flagship, Tristar, Marathon, DuraGuard, Distance, Enstar II, Preclude TR, Tame, Thiodan smoke, Ultrafine Oil, Insecticidal Soap, Talstar and Endeavor. Fungus gnats can be controlled with many of these same chemicals as well as Citation, Adept, insect parasitic nematodes (Nemasys, NemaShield, Scanmask) and Gnatrol. Bulb mites,Rhizoglyphus robini, represent on of the more troublesome insect pests on lilies. Duraguard is labeled as a drench for soil borne organisms that may include bulb mites. Bulb mites are more likely to attack physically damaged bulbs – so be sure to control fungus gnats and handle bulbs gently.

Note: Registration of pesticides varies by state so consult and follow labels for registered uses. To avoid any potential phytotoxicity or residue problems, spot test first before widespread use. No discrimination is intended for any products not listed.

Controlling Lily Height

Use A-Rest, Chlormequat E-Pro, Concise, Cycocel, Topflor or Sumagic as needed when shoots are 3-5" tall. Split applications provide the best results. You can apply any of the PGRs at ¼ to ½ normal rate, as needed, to control height. Reduce the concentrations of Sumagic used when combined with DIF. Use DIF, or cool morning DIP, to control lily height. Equal day/night temperatures, high night/low day temperatures or cool morning temperatures will keep lilies short.

Lily Storage

Lilies can be stored for up to 10 days in the dark at 35‑45F when buds turn white but before they open. Spray for Botrytis control prior to moving lilies to cold storage. Materials registered for botrytis control on lilies include 26GT, 26/36, Daconil, Exotherm Termil, Sextant, and Protect DF. Follow label directions. Water Easter lilies thoroughly before starting cold storage. After lilies are removed from the cooler, place in a shady location to avoid excessive wilting.

Easter and Mother's Day Bulb Forcing

Easter and Mother's Day Bulb Forcing

Forcing bulbs for the Easter Holiday is easy provided you follow our advice based on over fifty years of growing experience. Below are the steps necessary to grow your own successful Easter crop.

Three easy steps to an Easter Weekend Sellout:

When is Easter

---

• April 8, 2007
• March 23, 2008
• April 12, 2009
• April 4, 2010
• April 24, 2011
• April 8, 2012
• March 31, 2013

Step 1: Pre-Planting Instructions - what to do when your bulbs arrive and recommended supplies for potting

Step 2a: Cooler Instructions - specific instructions when using a cooler

Or Step 2b: Outdoor Rooting Instructions -specific instructions when using cold frames

Step 3: Greenhouse Production Instructions - specific instructions and time once bulbs are taken out of the cooler or ground and brought into the greenhouse

Step 4: Easter Weekend Sellout!

Prior to Planting Instructions

Getting off to the right start is important to a successful crop. Start out with quality bulbs, new pots and good soil. All three are necessary to prevent problems down the line. Accurate climate conditions from start to finish are essential.

When to Plant:

For optimal results plant bulbs from mid to late October so that regardless of when Easter is, they will get the optimal amount of cold weeks.

Before Planting:

• Store bulbs at 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit in a well ventilated area with plenty of fresh air. Do not let the temperature drop below 60 degrees for Hyacinths and Daffodils as this will create penicillium on the rooting plate and cause rotting. In addition, the lower the temperature the increased risk of mold, mildew and botrytis.

• If you receive your shipment of bulbs in cardboard boxes, open the boxes immediately for additional ventilation.

Potting Soil:

• Plant bulbs in well drained growing mix. The growing mix should be as follows:
• pH level between 5.5 - 6.5
• Low in soluble salts
• Should be moist at planting time
• Leave enough room in the pot for you to water them ( leave an inch of room from the top rim )
• Growing mix should contain the following:
  • 20% clean top soil or sand - this is very important to avoid botrytis
  • 60% peat moss
  • 20% Styrofoam or vermiculite for added drainage and to increase oxygen in the pot for increased air to your tulip's roots.
  • Do not use perlite, this releases fluoride and causes leaf damage on tulips

  The growing mix can greatly influence the quality of your tulip crop. A ph of 5.5 - 6.5 versus 6.5 - 7 will lessen the amount of roots. Should your ph be at the level of or close to 7.0 bring it down to a less neutral level. The sand in your mix will naturally fight off bacteria and will increase the drainage and oxygen levels around the tulip roots which is desirable.

Use New Pots and Good Potting Soil to Prevent Grey Mold:

What is grey mold?

Grey mold or botrytis cinerea is a bacterial root disease and will start on tulip roots and will attack the bulb itself and lastly will attack the stem and plant during the greenhouse phase.

Symptoms:

• Grey mold can be seen in the cooler during the winter months
• Grey puffy or fuzzy mold growing on drainage holes
• Slimy glazy roots in the bottom of the pot

Caused by:

1. Long extended rooting time at 48 degrees causing excessive root formation at the bottom of the pot.
2. Ethylene gas build-up. Make sure your bulbs are stored in a well ventilated area or room. Your bulbs need to breathe, otherwise your flowers may abort or dry up when in the greenhouse phase.
3. Too clean or sterile potting mix. The growing medium used by most growers is a straight artificial growing mix. These steamed and sterilized growing mixes are too clean. Tulips need a mix of sand and good quality top soil mix capable of fighting infection.

Take Steps to AVOID GREY MOLD BY:

1. Always use new pots
2. Use the proper growing mix as described above
3. Root tulips until they just hit the bottom of the pot
4. Follow temperature schedule as described below.

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Cooler Instructions (note if you are planting in an outdoor rooting bed, click here)

Cooler or Cellar Production Specific Instructions:

• Make sure the humidity inside the cooler is high (95%)
• You can wet the floor with water
• If pots are drying out on top because of condensing unit fans, give them water
• Check for roots. Varieties such as Tulip Coleur Cardinal are the last to root. If the roots are growing out of the bottom of the pot, everything is rooted.
• Maintain high humidity, this avoids roots from drying out and therefore lessens the risk of forming Botrytis Cinerea (grey mold)

Specific Cooler Temperature Chart (degrees are in Fahrenheit)

Variety	Pot Moisture Content	Temperature before planting	Temperature from Nov 6th onward	Temperature when sprouts develop too long
Tulips	Moist-Wet	65	40	32-33
Hyacinths*	Moist-Wet	65	40	32-33
Daffodils	Moist-Wet	65	40	32-33
Tete a Tete	Moist-Dry	65	40	32-33
Crocus	Moist-Wet	65	40	32-33
Iris	Moist-Dry	65	40	32-33
Prepared Hyacinths	Moist-Wet	65	N/A	N/A

*See forcer's guide book for more specific instructions as temperature for Hyacinths should only be dropped when the bulbs have fully vernalized (# of cold weeks.)

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Outdoor Rooting Instructions (note if you are planting in a cooler, click here)

• Plant bulbs in October
• Use a well balanced growing mix (see above)
• Place rooting bed in a well drained area
• Place rooting bed in an open area or field, not between greenhouses. Otherwise the sun will reflect excessive heat onto the rooting bed.
• Water all pots before placing winter cover over pots
• Cover all pots with 2 to 3 inches of sand
• Cover sand layer with 3 to 4 inches of straw salt hay immediately after planting. This is the winter cover.

• Spot check rooting bed for well rooted pots
• To avoid loss and shrinkage due to freezing weather make sure that the perimeter pots are covered with sand
• On top of the 2 to 3 inches of sand, cover your bulbs with an additional 4 to 6 inches of straw or salt hay. Do not use leaf compost or fresh cut grasses. This material will rot and decompose and create a heat insulated cover that will stretch up your hyacinths and tulips.

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Greenhou se Production

Tulips

Tulip forcing time in the greenhouse depends on the temperature in the greenhouse. Some varieties like Nico Vos and Palestrina take 6 weeks at 60 degrees to force in the greenhouse. So therefore, take them out first to be forced in the greenhouse. All other varieties force around the same time, and if a variety comes in too early, you can always move them to a cool area or back in the cooler @ 32-34 degrees. Use the following rule of thumb for most tulip varieties:

• If the average temperature is 60 degrees both day and night tulips require 4 weeks of forcing time
• If the average temperature is 50 degrees both day and night tulips require 5 weeks of forcing time
• If the average temperature is 40 degrees both day and night tulips require 6 weeks of forcing time

Tulips like to be acclimated to the daylight. Bring your tulips in the greenhouse at the end of the day, or on a cloudy overcast day. Water tulips right away, and make sure during the course of forcing that when you water, water thoroughly. Roots of the tulips are in the bottom of the pot, and that is where you need the water. The roots should never be dry. Once a tulip is tight and is showing little color, you can stop watering. To avoid botrytis, do not water on cloudy days. Water on sunny days early in the morning only. Maintain a well ventilated greenhouse.

Hyacinths

At an average temperature both day and night of 50 to 60 degrees hyacinths require about 10 to 14 days in the greenhouse, except varieties like Marconi, Amethyst and City of Haarlem; they need an additional 7 days.

Avoid a big temperature change in the beginning of the forcing period. Otherwise your hyacinths will split. To avoid hyacinths splitting we suggest you proceed as follows: (especially on early Easters)

• Slowly bring your cooler temperature up to 40 degrees for a week.
• Do not water hyacinths for the first 4-5 days in the greenhouse.
• If need be, cover your hyacinths with a couple of sheets of newspaper, this will enable the hyacinth and the flower inside to be drawn up.
• In the start phase of forcing hyacinths; Force at low temperatures in the greenhouse 40-45 degrees.
• When the hyacinths are in the greenhouse, water normally and force just like the
  tulips in a well ventilated greenhouse.

Why do hyacinths spit?

Detachment of the flower stem occurs especially when Easter is early. It is caused by not enough cold weeks or vernalization on the hyacinths and trying to force them in a warm greenhouse with roots drinking applied water.

What are enough cold weeks?

It is the number of weeks your planted bulbs in pots are in the cooler running between 36 and 48 degrees. The weeks that the potted bulbs are below 36 degrees is not considered to be part of a cold week.

How do I know if my hyacinths have enough cold weeks?

• Know plant date and count the number of weeks that the cooler ran between 48-36 degrees.
• If you are short on the number of weeks required than raise the temperature in the cooler after you have placed the tulips in the greenhouse.
• When you see that your hyacinths are reacting to the increase of the temperature inside the cooler by a lengthening sprout development, you have reached full vernalization. Use the following chart for specific hyacinth varieties:
  
  
  
  

  Hyacinth Variety	Required weeks between 36 and 48 degrees
  Blue Jacket	17 weeks
  Carnegie	14 weeks
  Pink Surprise	16 weeks
  Marconi	18 weeks
  Amethyst	18 weeks
  Pink Pearl	14 weeks
  Delft Blue	14 weeks

Tulips

We have a detailed spreadsheet outlining the number of cold weeks required for each specific variety of Tulip. If you require an additional copy, please click here.

Daffodils and Tete a Tete:

Like hyacinths, daffodils will force quickly in about a two week period. When growing daffodils, keep them in the greenhouse and watered. Also just like tulips and hyacinths, once the flower is starting to show color, do not water as heavily because the roots of the plant will only drink and absorb the water, therefore the stem will only grow taller.

Storing forced bulb crop in the cooler:

• Be sure that the foliage is dry and the growing medium is moist to wet
• A tight green plant versus an open flower plant in color will store longer and better in the cooler
• Run the cooler at between 32 and 33 degrees

Early and Valentine's Day Forcing (Planting)

Early and Valentine's Day Forcing

Forcing bulbs for January and February is becoming increasingly popular. It just requires that bulbs are planted earlier. Some varieties are better than others for this early crop.

Three easy steps to a Valentine's Day Sellout! Our Top Picks for Valentine's Day Bulbs Tulip Strawberry Ice Tulip Seadov Christmas Marvel Christmas Dream

Step 1: Pre-Planting Instructions - what to do when your bulbs arrive and recommended supplies for potting

Step 2: Cooler Instructions - specific instructions when using a cooler. Outdoor rooting is not recommended for this early crop, coolers are required.

Step 3: Greenhouse Production Instructions - specific instructions and time once bulbs are taken out of the cooler or ground and brought into the greenhouse

Step 4: Valentine's Day - Sellout!

Prior to Planting Instructions

Getting off to the right start is important to a successful crop. Start out with quality bulbs, new pots and good soil. All three are necessary to prevent problems down the line. Accurate climate conditions from start to finish are essential.

When to Plant:

Plant as soon as you receive your shipment. We have taken great care to pre-cool bulbs at 9 degrees Celsius, it is important that these bulbs maintain 9 degrees Celsius during potting and watering before going into a 9 degree Celsius cooler.

Potting Soil:

• Plant bulbs in well drained growing mix. The growing mix should be as follows:
• pH level between 5.5 - 6.5
• Low in soluble salts
• Should be moist at planting time
• Leave enough room in the pot for you to water them ( leave an inch of room from the top rim )
• Growing mix should contain the following:
  • 20% clean top soil or sand - this is very important to avoid botrytis
  • 60% peat moss
  • 20% Styrofoam or vermiculite for added drainage and to increase oxygen in the pot for increased air to your tulip's roots.
  • Do not use perlite, this releases fluoride and causes leaf damage on tulips

  The growing mix can greatly influence the quality of your tulip crop. A ph of 5.5 - 6.5 versus 6.5 - 7 will lessen the amount of roots. Should your ph be at the level of or close to 7.0 bring it down to a less neutral level. The sand in your mix will naturally fight off bacteria and will increase the drainage oxygen levels around the tulip roots which is desirable.

Use New Pots and Good Potting Soil to Prevent Grey Mold:

What is grey mold?

Grey mold or botrytis cinerea is a bacterial root disease and will start on tulip roots and will attack the bulb itself and lastly will attack the stem and plant during the greenhouse phase.

Symptoms:

• Grey mold can be seen in the cooler during the winter months?
• Grey puffy or fuzzy mold growing on drainage holes ?
• Slimy glazy roots in the bottom of the pot?

Caused by:

1. Long extended rooting time at 48 degrees causing excessive root formation at the bottom of the pot.
2. Ethylene gas build-up. Make sure your bulbs are stored in a well ventilated area or room. Your bulbs need to breathe, otherwise your flowers may abort or dry up when in the greenhouse phase.
3. Too clean or sterile potting mix. The growing medium used by most growers is a straight artificial growing mix. These steamed and sterilized growing mixes are too clean. Tulips need a mix of sand and good quality top soil mix capable of fighting infection.

Take Steps to AVOID GREY MOLD BY:

1. Always use new pots
2. Use the proper growing mix as described above
3. Root tulips until they just hit the bottom of the pot
4. Follow temperature schedule as described below.

---

Cooler Instructions

Cooler or Cellar Production Specific Instructions:

• Make sure the humidity inside the cooler is high (95%)
• You can wet the floor with water
• If pots are drying out on top because of condensing unit fans, give them water
• Check for roots. If the roots growing out of the bottom of the pot, everything is rooted.
• Maintain high humidity, this avoids roots from drying out and therefore lessens the risk of forming Botrytis Cinerea (grey mold)

Specific Cooler Temperature Chart (degrees are in Fahrenheit)

Variety	Pot Moisture Content	Temperature from September 1st thru October 25th	Temperature from October 26th thru November 5th	Temperature from November 6th to as long as possible	Temperature when sprouts develop too long
Tulips	Moist-Wet	48	45	40	32-33
Hyacinths*	Moist-Wet	48	45	40	32-33
Daffodils	Moist-Wet	48	45	40	32-33
Tete a Tete	Moist-Dry	48	45	40	32-33
Crocus	Moist-Wet	48	45	40	32-33
Iris	Moist-Dry	48	45	40	32-33
Prepared Hyacinths	Moist-Wet	48	45	40	35

---

Greenhou se Production

After November 5th, pots are ready to be brought into the greenhouse as necessary to fulfill your orders.

Tulips

Tulip forcing time in the greenhouse depends on the temperature in the greenhouse. Some varieties like Nico Vos and Palestrina take 6 weeks at 60 degrees to force in the greenhouse. So therefore, take them out first to be forced in the greenhouse. All other varieties force around the same time, and if a variety comes in too early, you can always move them to a cool area or back in the cooler @ 32-34 degrees. Use the following rule of thumb for most tulip varieties:

• If the average temperature is 60 degrees both day and night tulips require 4 weeks of forcing time
• If the average temperature is 50 degrees both day and night tulips require 5 weeks of forcing time
• If the average temperature is 40 degrees both day and night tulips require 6 weeks of forcing time

Tulips like to be acclimated to the daylight. Bring your tulips in the greenhouse at the end of the day, or on a cloudy overcast day. Water tulips right away, and make sure during the course of forcing that when you water, water thoroughly. Roots of the tulips are in the bottom of the pot, and that is where you need the water. The roots should never be dry. Once a tulip is tight and is showing little color, you can stop watering. To avoid botrytis, do not water on cloudy days. Water on sunny days early in the morning only. Maintain a well ventilated greenhouse.

Hyacinths

At an average temperature both day and night of 50 to 60 degrees hyacinths require about 10 to 14 days in the greenhouse, except varieties like Marconi, Amethyst and City of Harlem; they need an additional 7 days.

Avoid a big temperature change in the beginning of the forcing period. Otherwise your hyacinths will split. To avoid hyacinths splitting we suggest you proceed as follows: (especially on early Easters)

• Slowly bring your cooler temperature up to 40 degrees for a week.
• Do not water hyacinths for the first 4-5 days in the greenhouse.
• If need be, cover your hyacinths with a couple of sheets of newspaper, this will enable the hyacinth and the flower inside to be drawn up.
• In the start phase of forcing hyacinths; Force at low temperatures in the greenhouse 40-45 degrees.
• When the hyacinths are in the greenhouse, water normally and force just like the
  tulips in a well ventilated greenhouse.

Why do hyacinths split?

Detachment of the flower stem is caused by not enough cold week or vernalization on the hyacinths and trying to force them in a warm greenhouse with roots drinking applied water.

What are enough cold weeks?

It is the number of weeks your planted bulbs in pots are in the cooler running between 36 and 48 degrees. The weeks that the potted bulbs are below 36 degrees is not considered to be part of a cold week.

How do I know if my hyacinths have enough cold weeks?

• Know plant date and count the number of weeks that the cooler ran between 48-36 degrees.
• If you are short on the number of weeks required than raise the temperature in the cooler after you have placed the tulips in the greenhouse.
• When you see that your hyacinths are reacting to the increase of the temperature inside the cooler by a lengthening sprout development, you have reached full vernalization. Use the following chart for specific hyacinth varieties:

  Hyacinth Variety	Required weeks between 36 and 48 degrees
  Blue Jacket	17 weeks
  Carnegie	14 weeks
  Pink Surprise	16 weeks
  Marconi	18 weeks
  Amethyst	18 weeks
  Pink Pearl	14 weeks
  Delft Blue	14 weeks

Tulips

We have a detailed spreadsheet outlining the number of cold weeks required for each specific variety of Tulip. If you require an additional copy, please click here.

Daffodils and Tete a Tete:

Like hyacinths, daffodils will force quickly in about a two week period. When growing daffodils, keep them in the greenhouse and watered. Also just like tulip and hyacinths, once the flower is starting to show color, do not water as heavily because the roots of the plant will only drink and absorb the water, therefore the stem will only grow taller.

Storing forced bulb crop in the cooler:

• Be sure that the foliage is dry and the growing medium is moist to wet
• A tight green plant versus an open flower plant in color will store longer and better in the cooler
• Run the cooler at between 32 and 33 degrees

HOYA KERRII (Lucky heart)

HOYA KERRII (Lucky heart)
Hoya Kerrii has been voted the most promising indoor plant innovation at the spring plant fair at Naaldwijk in the Netherlands. This vining plant with heart shaped leaves comes in green or variegated colors and each leaf can grow to about 20cm tall, is sold as a gift item for special occasions.
THIS PLANT IS TEMPORARY NOT IN PRODUCTION

Bare root plant information:

Name	Item No.	Description	Capacity/rack
Hoya Kerrii		Base Diameter / Grafts
	HK1	Green leave	ship by air
	HK2	variagated leave	ship by air

Hoya Kerrii leaves can be shipped with clean roots without growing media during June to October.

FICUS MICROCARPA (Gin Seng Bonsai)

FICUS MICROCARPA (Gin Seng Bonsai) Ficus Microcarpa is also known as Gin Sen bonsai tree, it can be arranged in a bonsai setting. The shapes of the roots resemble the roots of the world famous medical Gin Seng plant. A species with small to medium-sized dense leaves, similar-looking to Ficus benjamina but less likely to drop leaves, Ficus Microcarpa will make a great gift for novice plant owners who love the look of bonsai.

Bare root plant information:

Name	Item No.	Description	Capacity/rack
Ficus Microcarpa		weight / suggested pot size
	GSL	400-500g / 6" pot
	GSM5	300-400g / 5" pot
	GSM4	200-300g / 4" pot
	GSS	50g / 3" pot

Bare root Ficus Microcarpa

CYCAS REVOLUTA (Sago Palm)

CYCAS REVOLUTA (Sago Palm) Evergreen, palm-like, Cycas Revoluta originally comes from Japan, Okinawa, and south-east China. Cycads are one of the oldest living plants families in the world. This living fossil could grow to 4 meters tall on the ground. Used often as houseplants in interior-scapes. Landscape it as a cultivated perennial in warm coastal areas, or as container plant in cool areas.

Bare root plant information:

Name	Item No.	Description	Capacity/rack
Cycas Revoluta		Height
Single bulb unit	CR005S	4-5cm	15000
Single bulb unit	CR006S	6-8cm	7500
Single bulb unit	CR008S	8-10cm	4000
Single bulb unit	CR010S	10-12cm	2800
Single bulb unit	CR012S	12-14cm	2000
Single bulb unit	CR014S	14-16cm	1500
Single bulb unit	CR016S	16-18cm	1200
Single bulb unit	CR018S	18-20cm	500
		Base Diameter
Multi bulb unit	CR012	30cm	300
	CR018	40cm	200
	CR020	50cm	100
	CR023	60cm	60
	CR027	70cm	50
	CR031	80cm	35
	CR039	100cm	20

Left: Single bulb units. Right: Multi bulb units

ALOCASIA CUCULLATA (Chinese Taro)

ALOCASIA CUCULLATA (Chinese Taro) Alocasia Cucullata is a native Taiwan plant. In Asian countries, Alocasia is well known as "Buddha's hand". Residences in Thailand place the plant in their front doors, and when the wind blows, the leaves of Alocasia is like Buddha's hand, waving good luck and fortune into the home.

Bare root plant information:

Name	Item No.	Description	Capacity/rack
Alocasia Cucullata		Base Diameter / Grafts	6 levels/rack
Multi bulb unit	AL001	4-6cm, non-grafted / mix color
Multi bulb unit	AL002	6-8cm, non-grafted / mix color
Single bulb unit	AL003L	8-10cm, non-grafted / mix color
Single bulb unit	AL003M	10-12cm, non-grafted / mix color
Single bulb unit	AL003S	12-14cm, non-grafted / mix color

Upper Left: Bare root Alocasia pack in baskets

Upper Right: Single bulb units arranged in ceremic pot








Lower Left: Container garden arranement

Lower Right: Multi bulb units